How to Draft a Simple Bell Sleeve

The sleeves can be wide and flowy, or have an asymmetrical hem.  Costumes often use a bell sleeve, in fantasy characters (a fairy princess or Snow White's Evil Queen) or in historical (mostly Medieval) costumes.

We'll be drafting a simple bell, with just a bit of flare - where you want to take it from there is up to you!

Start with your blouse sleeve block (not the fitted sleeve from the original block).  Trace a copy of the pattern, do not alter the block pattern!

Draw vertical lines along the grainline (from shoulder point to hem), and again on each side of the grainline, dividing the sleeve into four relatively even sections.

Cut along those lines (we'll be using a "slash and spread" technique).

Spread the pieces apart with about 1" between each section (this can be easily adapted for more or less flare when you make your muslin).

Then add about 1" on each side seam for a bit more flare. Mark a point roughly half way between the underam and the hem (this is the elbow area) and draw a line flaring away from the side seam 1" at the hem. (The red dashed line is the original side seam of the blouse sleeve).

This is part of what makes the sleeve a bell rather than just a wide sleeve.

The pattern now tapers to the elbow (although it also has just a bit more room through the bicep than the blouse sleeve), then flares gently to the hem.

This sleeve is so simple yet so beautiful.  It makes the most basic blouse or dress a bit more special, and, depending on the amount of flare you choose, can also add quite a lot of drama!

For a more dramatic look, you can draft the bell a bit wider - or MUCH wider, as you prefer. 

We'll be going quite a bit wider, although, as the sketch shows, it's still not extreme. 

This method, however, allows you to go as wide and full as you'd like.  It's really just a variation on the method above. 

You will, again, start with a tracing of your blouse sleeve pattern, not the original sleeve from your dress block. 

Instead of marking and slashing the pattern from the cap, mark your slash lines from the elbow line of the pattern to the hem. 

Make the lines about 1 1/2" apart (this does not need to be precise, but you'll need about 6 slash lines).

Cut along the slash lines from the hem to the elbow line.

Cut VERY CLOSE to the elbow line, but do NOT cut through the line.

Then cut ALONG the elbow line (just SLIGHTLY above the slash lines) from side to side. It’s okay to start in the center of the elbow line and cut from the center to the two sides.

Spread the pieces as wide as you’d like - the diagram is about 2” apart, but you can spread them much more if you desire. The outer pieces should not be spread more than 90 degrees, though. The more severe the bend at the elbow, the harder it will be to stitch. 

The elbow line will dip in the center as you spread the pieces.

Finally, trace the new shape to another piece of paper, smoothing the curve on the sides of the pattern (at the elbow).

Be sure to "true" the pattern piece, checking that the sides of the pattern piece match each other precisely. 

Of course, this is something you should do with any pattern piece, but a piece with this much curve and flare can easily go awry, with one side longer/shorter or wider than the other.  That makes it impossible to stitch, and can throw the whole sleeve off-grain. 

But it's a really beautiful sleeve once it's drafted correctly!

• Bell Sleeve

• Bishop's Sleeve

• Cap Sleeve

• Flutter Sleeve

• Puff Sleeve and Full Sleeve Variations

• Sleeve Cuffs