The pattern is based on the extreme flare top. 

We've cut both the front opening and the hem along a diagonal curve, creating the "V" neck and asymmetrical hem.

The hemline mimics the neck opening.

This could be made as a wrap top (my version would have a LOT of buttons along the neck taping), or you could do a faux wrap by stitching the buttons through the layers, and topstitching along the trim to secure the neck opening.

In either case, the layers would hang freely from about the waist to the hem.

I've chosen to make the back hem straight, so the points are in the front only, one at each side. This style is inspired by one I saw online, and I liked the way it looked. 

You could easily add the points to the back as well, if you prefer, so they appear front and back. 

I'll briefly show you what that would look like at the end of the page. 

After making a copy or tracing the swing top pattern, draw the new neckline, which creates a deep V and ends at about the waist level.

This is a wide, gentle “swoop” from the side neck (the left side neck, as you are facing the pattern) to the right side, halfway between the underarm and the hem.

Next, draw the new hem shape.

Starting at the left side hem, draw a curved line to the right, ending about 8” - 10” below the original hemline (at the right side). This shape will mimic the neckline.

You’ll cut away the area ABOVE the red dashed line on the right side of the pattern, and ADD the area below the original hem.

The final pattern piece for the front of the top will look much like the one at right. Add a notch (shown in red) along the longer side, showing where the bottom of the back top will meet the side.

When you cut your fabric, you will cut two of these, and they will overlap, as shown below. 

Because the back has a straight hem, the back pattern is simply the same as the more extreme swing top.

When stitching the top, the side seam of the back is stitched to the shorter side of the front. This will give you an actual overlap (secure each side with a button or tie). 

Or, if you want a faux wrap, overlap the stitched pieces and topstitch along the neckline to the side seam so the pieces stay together. 

There is no need to secure the sides any more than that, as the overlap will fully cover your body.  The front pieces will move freely at the hem.

If you would like points on the back as well as the front, simply extend each side seam of the back top pattern to meet the length of the points on the front. 

Then draw a curved hemline, creating points at each side, keeping the highest part of the hemline the same as the original. 

• Basic Blouse

• Fitted Blouse

• Tunic Top

• Swing or Flared Top

• Wrapped Flare Top with Asymmetric Hem

• Halter Top

• Adding a Shoulder Yoke to any bodice

• Top with Princess Seams